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Dining
OK, So You're Hungry. You've come to the right place. New Orleans is a
culinary delight, but don't look too hard for healthy food; some would say don't
look at all (although those demanding, say, vegetarian, vegan, or kosher food
can with effort find it). You're on vacation, so take advantage of what they
prepare best here. New Orleans has good food for people on any type of budget.
The seafood is fresh and relatively cheap compared to many places.
Some think it is often best fried, but you can try seafood of a wide variety
cooked many different ways here. Oysters are a popular specialty, gulped down raw, battered and fried,
in a po' boy sandwich, or elegant Rockefeller style.
There may on occasion be some exotic items on the menu. Yes, you can have
alligator if you'd like - it mostly tastes like chicken! (but chewier). Try
nutria only if you're very adventurous; many who've tried it say there's good
reason eating nutria has never caught on. The soft-shell crab, on the other hand,
can be excellent. Crawfish (don't say "cray" fish) is a popular dish here, usually
boiled in a huge pot of very spicy water and served in a pile with corn and
potatoes. If cracking open the shells and sucking the heads isn't your thing,
try them with pasta or in sushi or any other way they're prepared.
Poor boys or Po-boys are the distinctive New Orleans variation
of the sandwich. Unless you request your sandwich put on something else like
sliced white bread (while you're in New Orleans, don't bother), it will be
served on a po-boy loaf, similar to French bread; bread pedants debate
whether the New Orleans po-boy bread is the same thing as the baguette of France
or qualifies as its own unique type of bread (some say it actually IS French
bread but because of the extreme humidity, the bread ferments very quickly and
gets its distinctive sour taste and odd texture). Either way, it's good, but
only part of what makes the sandwich tasty. The rest is what is put on it, of
course. Roast beef with "debris" gravy, fried shrimp, oysters, etc... You'll
probably be asked if you want it "dressed". No, this has nothing to do with
clothing being optional. In New Orleans, "dressed" means with lettuce, tomato,
and mayonnaise. Every neighborhood in New Orleans has its favorite po-boy
places; the better ones butcher, slow cook, and season their own meats. The po-boy
is a great and filling taste of New Orleans at a reasonable price.
One distinctive local sandwich not served on po-boy bread is the
muffaletta a rich creation of the local Italian-American community, with a
variety of sliced meats and cheeses topped with olive salad on a big round
Italian roll. Unless you have a very big appetite, half a muffaletta will
probably be plenty for a filling meal.
Gumbo is a tasty Louisiana traditional stew, originating in
West-Africa and comes in numerous varieties. The vegetable base is traditionally
okra (in West-Africa, the Wollof language word "gumbo" means okra) with
file (sassafras leaves) used as a thickener. Seafood is the most common meat; but
one will just as often find chicken, duck, smoked sausage or "andouille"
sausage, the ages-old "gumbo d'zherbes" (vegetarian) and other types of gumbo on
many a menu. Gumbo is universally served with rice.
Red beans and rice sounds bland, but is a tasty, comforting treat
prepared in the New Orleans way. The beans are slowly cooked until they reach a
creamy texture, with a mix of onions, bell pepper, celery, and spices.
Especially traditional on Mondays. It can be vegetarian but may not be; ask. It
is often served with spicy, smoked or "andouille" sausage.
Local fresh produce: Have you heard of Louisiana strawberries,
satsumas and Creole tomatoes? If not, it's probably because they're so good that
locals eat most of them right here! The strawberries come in around Jazz Fest
time, satsumas in December and the Creole tomatoes in early summer. You may spot
"mirliton" on the menu, a vegetable not common in most of the United States. In
Mexico and the Southwest, it is called "chayote" or "alligator pear," though
travelers to Guatemala may recognize it as the same thing that's called "hisquil"
down there. Of course, when the first crops come in, there are parties,
festivals, and parades commemorating the strawberries, Creole tomatoes, or
mirlitons.
Every restaurant will have hot sauce as a condiment on the table (even
Chinese and fast-food restaurants). It is not true that New Orleans food will
all be very spicy hot. Many locals do like to add hot sauce to many dishes, and
say it helps keep them cool in the summer. If you can take it, give it a try.
In many of the fine restaurants around town, people take their clothes as
seriously as their food. Despite the obnoxious heat and humidity in the
summertime, don't go to these restaurants dressed in shorts/jeans; they won't
let you in. This applies only to the nicest (and some say best) restaurants in
town but there are plenty of places that you can wear shorts to (many of which
are great too). This is what you've been saving your pennies for.
Snow balls or sno-balls are the New Orleans take on the
northern "snow cone" or flavored ice done with more finesse. Ice is not crushed
but shaved into microscopically fine snow in special machines, and flavored with
syrups, fresh made at the better places. The flavors need not be overly sweet,
and can come in a wide variety ranging from striking to subtle, including such
treats as wild cherry, lemonade, chocolate cream, coffee, orchid vanilla, and
dozens of others. Locals almost worship the better neighborhood sno-ball stands
during the city's long hot summer; try the refreshing treat as a snack or desert
and find out why. Note, many snow ball shops will close in the winter, as New
Orleans is surprisingly chilly between November and February and the demand dies
down.
Drink
Did we mention drinking? New Orleans has no "blue laws" or mandatory closing
times; there is always somewhere to get alcohol any hour of day or night every
day of the year.
You can head out the door with an open container of alcohol-- but not in a
bottle or can; to try to keep broken glass and jagged metal from filling the
street, local laws mandate you use a plastic cup while on city streets and
sidewalks. These are known locally as "go cups", and every local bar provides
them, usually has a stack of them by the door and the bouncer will take your
drink from you and pour it into the cup because bars can be held liable if they
don't. Use them, because New Orleans Police are not fun to deal with.
However, drinking does not have to be about quantity. Beer lovers should try
local brews like "Abita" on tap, from light Wheat to dark "Turbodog" to the
quirky "Purple Haze", a raspberry beer loved by some. Local cocktails include
the "sazerac" and the tourist favorite "hurricane". There is also the famous
"Hand Grenade" which is billed as "New Orleans' Strongest Drink" and is only
available at Tropical Isle (they patented it). Beware, most think the lime green
concoction tastes like a weak punch but then are well buzzed after a few sips.
New Orleanians also love wine.
Those not accustomed to the Southern heat and humidity should be sure to
drink more water or other drinks without alcohol than they usually do during the
day to avoid dehydration.
Listings of some top choices of the city's famous bars can be found in the
neighborhood articles.
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