Uptown is a large portion of New Orleans
settled in the 19th century after the Louisiana Purchase, upriver from the
older parts of the city around the French Quarter and the Central Business
District. Uptown is home to over 200,000 of New Orleans' total population.
It's significantly less due to Hurricane Katrina. At the upper end of Uptown
is the Carrollton neighborhood.Attractions
Take the green Saint Charles streetcar line, ride on 1920s vintage
trolleys past the mansions of the city's 19th century "millionaire row" --
the best $1.25 value in town (have exact change ready, please).
• Audubon Park: pleasant park to walk around, designed by
Frederick Law Olmsted, the same fellow who designed Central Park in New York
City. Runs from St. Charles Avenue to Magazine Street just below Broadway
and the Carrollton neighborhood.
• Audubon Zoo: very good zoo, see the rare white alligators, at the
upper end of Magazine Street. Riverboats connect the Zoo to the Central
Business District.
• The Butterfly: A park along the Mississippi River front, on the
other side of the Zoo.
• Tulane University
• Jazz Archive: In Jones Hall on Freret Street. New Orleans jazz
fans can see a display of photographs and artifacts, and research by reading
or listening to interviews with historic jazz musicians.
• Middle American Research Institute - fans of Pre-Columbian art
will enjoy the artifacts on display at one of the city's little known
galleries, on the top floor of Dinwiddie Hall, the building on the right
(closest to Loyola) as you face Tulane from Audubon Park. Free, but no
elevator up the 4 flights of stairs.
• Garden District is a part of town known for the fine mansions. The
official historical district is bounded by St. Charles Avenue, Jackson
Avenue, Louisiana Avenue, and Magazine Street; historically some definitions
have defined the boundaries otherwise, and more equally fine historic
mansions can be found nearby outside these boundaries. The name "Garden
District" came from early in the 19th century when this area was laid out
with fine mansions of businessmen and plantation owners, building a couple
of grand houses to the block surrounded by large gardens. In the late 19th
century most of the land owners sold off most of the surrounding lots, on
which wooden Victorian homes rich in architectural "gingerbread" were built.
Thus, despite the name, the "Garden District" is notable more for its
architecture than the gardens. Tours of the mansions of Uptown's Garden
District are given by both the Park Service and private companies; there
are both walking and bus tours available.
• Lafayette Cemetery #1 Historic old cemetery, at Prytania &
Washington
• Latter Branch, New Orleans Public Library 5120 St. Charles Avenue:
Yes, you can read a book or get a bit of internet time, but this branch of
the library is in a 1907 vintage mansion, formerly the home of silent film
star Marguerite Clark. This makes it a St. Charles mansion you can see the
elegant interior of for free! 10 am - 8 pm, Mon & Weds; 10 am - 6 pm,
Tuesday & Thursday; 10 am - 5 pm, Saturday.
Dining
Budget
• Bluebird Cafe 3625 Prytania: Locals joint; breakfasts are great
& cheap! Breakfasts and lunch; open until 3pm Sunday and Monday, and 10pm
Tuesday-Saturday.
• Cafe Luna 802 Nashville at Magazine: Coffee & tea, sandwiches &
pastries.
• Frankie & Johnny's
321 Arabella (just of Tchopitoulas), 899-9146: local favorite for
crawfish.
• Domilise's Po-Boys 5240 Annunciation. Good neighborhood po-boy
place has been here for generations.
• Fortissimo Deli 3331 St. Charles Avenue, 899-5313. Deli and
prepared meals, eat there or take to go.
• Joey K's 3001 Magazine, 891-0997. Neighborhood po-boys, catfish,
and fresh caught fish specials.
• Mona's 4126 Magazine Street. Middle Eastern. Also has branches in
Mid-City and Faubourg Marigny.
• Taqueria Corona 5932 Magazine: cheap good Mexican. Closed for
siesta from 2 to ~5:30 in the afternoons.
• Hansen's Sno-Bliz Tchopitoulas at Bourdeaux a few blocks up from
Napoleon: the Commander's Palace of sno-ball stands; ice shaved
microscopically fine flavored with shockingly luscious syrups made fresh
every day. A local legend since the 1930s! The building says open 1-7, but
don't count on it; the Hansen's are getting up in years and some days they
may not feel like opening up the stand, but the granddaughter has joined the
crew to keep things running. If they're not open, content yourself with the
next best thing:
• Tee Eva's: 4430 Magazine (just up from Napoleon Avenue),
899-8350. Good sno-balls and tasty pies and praline candy. Try the miniature
pies (pecan, sweet-potato, or Creole cream cheese), just enough for a snack.
Mon-Sat 11am - 6pm.
• SnoWizard 4001 Magazine (at Constantinople) Yet another
excellent sno-ball place, a short walk down from Napoleon. Open during hot
weather Sun-Friday Noon - 8pm; Sat Noon - 7pm.
• The Creole Creamery 4924 Prytania, tel 894-8680. If you're in the
mood for good ice cream, this is the place to go, for a small cup or cone or
a huge elaborate sundae. They also make shakes & malts in the old fashioned
soda fountain style, and offer many locally made fresh flavors of ice
creams, from standard to distinctive, and even a few sugar free flavors.
Open daily Noon - 11 pm.
• Sophie's 1912 Magazine Street. Uptown's other great ice cream
shop. Northern Italian style gelato and other treats. 561-0291
Coffee Houses
Some local places for a good cup of coffee, some light eats, and pleasant
locations with people-watching.
• CC's 900 Jefferson (at Magazine Street), has other
locations too.
• PJ's 5432 Magazine (just up from Jefferson Avenue). Small
local chain also has location in Carrollton and others around the metro
area.
• Rue de la Course Original location at 1500 Magazine (at Race
Street); second beautiful big location at 3128 Magazine (a couple
blocks down from Louisiana)
• Still Perkin' 2727 Prytania
Midrange
• Bijou's: Uptown along the streetcar line. Devlin Roussel is the
darling chef
• Cafe Atchafalaya 901 Louisiana (between Magazine & Tchopitoulas):
Seafood and decadent deserts
• Cannon's 4141 St.
Charles Avenue, 891-3200.
• Casamento's 4330
Magazine (just down from Napoleon), 895-9761: Oysters, oysterloaf.
• Copeland's 4338 St. Charles (at the downtown/river corner of
Napoleon), 897-2325: locally owned small chain of New Orleans/Cajun
food.
• Copeland's
Cheesecake Bistro 2001 St. Charles, 593-9955: Gaudier trendier
Copeland's. Anne Rice threw a fit about the architecture.
• Crepe Nanou 1410 Robert (just off Prytania). Crepes and
other French taste treats, dinner only.
• Lilette: New
Orleans Magazine Chef of the Year Chef John Harris cooks you an
unforgettable meal in this neighborhood bistro on Magazine Street.
• Magnolia Cafe: Uptown on Magazine Street in a gentrifying
neighborhood. Great for brunch. The Creole-Cajun cuisine at Magnolia Cafe
was designed to achieve casual comfort, quality and genuine value, which it
does using fresh local ingredients for authentic recipes. Try to sit on the
upstairs balcony during good weather for maximum relaxation.
• Martin's Wine Cellar 3827 Barrone. One of the city's best
selections of bottled wine and liquor also has a deli inside. Gourmet
sandwiches and wine by the glass.
• Martinique Bistro 5908 Magazine: French Caribbean, dinner.
• Nirvana 4308 Magazine, 894-9797: Indian.
• Petit Grocery 4238 Magazine, 891-3377. An old neighborhood grocery
morphed into a fine restaurant. Veal, pork, duck, etc. Dinner 6pm - 10pm
M-Sat
• Reginelli's 741 State (at
Magazine): Italian & pizza
• Semolina 3226 Magazine, 895-4260. Nouveau pasta dishes.
• Voodoo BBQ 1501 St. Charles Avenue. Trendy barbecue. 522-4647
Splurge
• Commander's
Palace 1403 Washington (just towards the river from Prytania),
899-9221. Many think it the best of the traditional upscale restaurants.
• Emeril's Delmonico 1300 St. Charles Avenue (a short distance up
from Lee Circle), 525-4937. Celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse's third
restaurant in town; he bought out the venerable New Orleans Delmonico's.
• Gautreau's1728 Soniat (past
Napoleon on the streetcar line), 899-7397. Excellent uptown restaurant!
• Pascal's Manale 1838 Napoleon Avenue (a few blocks back from
St. Charles) 895-4877.
• The Upperline 1413 Upperline
(off Prytania towards St. Charles)
Internet
An hour of internet time at New Orleans Public Library branches:
• Latter Branch 5120 St. Charles Avenue
• Napoleon Branch/ Children's Resource Center 913 Napoleon Ave, just
back from Magazine Street
• Broadmoor / Rosa Keller Branch 4300 S. Broad Street, at the inland
end of Napoleon Avenue. |
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Live music venues
• Le Bon Temps Roule 4801 Magazine at Bourdeaux, local acts, good
beer and burgers
• The Columns 3811 St.
Charles cool jazz and gypsy swing in an elegant setting.
• Dos Jefes 5535
Tchopitoulas, 891-8500: cigar bar; hot modern jazz in a smoky atmosphere.
• The Neutral Ground
5110 Daneel (3 blocks back from St. Charles, 3 blocks down from Jefferson
Avenue), 891-3381. Coffee House with more than the usual coffee-house
folk singers; eclectic line up can also include blues, Cajun, Dixieland
combos, bluegrass, jug bands, even Hawaiian music.
• Rosy's Jazz Hall 500
Valence Street (just of Tchopitoulas), 896-7679.
• Showcase Uptown
1700 Louisiana Avenue (a couple blocks back from St. Charles)
945-5621: a hot new jazz venue
• Tipitina's 501 Napoleon (at
Tchopitoulas) 895-8477: Legendary Uptown music club with great local and
national talent. Take bus/cab/car, but well worth the trouble. "Tip's" has a
2nd location in the French Quarter, too.
Shopping
Antiques and art from the galleries along Magazine Street
Lodging
Budget
• Marquette House 2249 Carondelet Street: Hostel, conveniently a
block from the St. Charles Streetcar line
• St. Vincent's Hostel
1507 Magazine Street 523-3411
Midrange
• Quality Inn Maison St. Charles 1319 St. Charles Avenue. On the
streetcar line in the lower part of Uptown, an easy walk from several
restaurants. 522-0187
Upscale
• Clarion Grand Boutique Hotel 2001 St. Charles. 558-9966
• Columns Hotel 3811 St.
Charles. Small elegant hotel in a Victorian mansion. Also has a great bar
and live music downstairs.
• Pontchartrain Hotel,
2031 St. Charles. Grand old large uptown hotel.
Drink
• Bulldog, 3236
Magazine. One of the city's largest selections of beers on tap and in
bottles, also serves burgers.
• The Columns 3811 St.
Charles Avenue (off Peniston Street): Very classy (but not high-hat)!
Located on the streetcar line; Has nice patio overlooking St. Charles Avenue
and more importantly: free food during Friday happy hour from 5-7pm!
• F&M Patio Bar 4841 Tchopitoulas (a couple of blocks up from
Napoleon Avenue), 895-6784. A favorite local dive with a great jukebox.
Open nights Monday-Saturdays.
• Fat Harry's: St. Charles just down from Napoleon (next to
Copeland's), also has greasy pizza
• Igor's 2133 St. Charles, drink and have a burger while doing your
laundry in their coin operated machines
• Ms. Mae's: Friendly dive at Magazine & Napoleon Avenues
• Parasol's 2533 Constance Street. Old Irish neighborhood bar. Also
serves po-boys and seafood. Their block party on St. Patrick's Day is always
jammed.

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