| Old San Juan (Viejo San Juan)
is the historic core of San Juan (Puerto Rico). Although this eight block by
eight block district is part of the San Juan, it is quite geographically and
culturally distinct from the rest of the city. It occupies the western half
of the islet of San Juan, which it shares with Puerta de Tierra. As a
tourist destination, English is relatively common, but not universally
spoken.
Founded in 1509, San Juan became a walled city protected by multiple
forts. It guarded an important entrance into the Spanish Main, and withstood
multiple attacks by the British and Dutch (some partially successful). It
was considered the Gibraltar of the West Indies. Due to its military
significance, the government kept the growing population within the city
walls until 1897, when a few bastions were demolished. The forts received
some naval bombardment from US naval ships during the Spanish American War
(1898). Much of district is intact architecturally, including the impressive
fortifications.
Many tourists are caught unawares by the sun exposure received from
simply walking around the sites of this tropical city. Sunblock is available
at many stores in town. Wear good walking shoes to deal with the hills and
uneven pavement. Around the perimeter of the district the tradewinds make it
surprisingly comfortable, but along the interior streets it is much hotter.
Brief showers are quite common.
Old San Juan is a common stop for cruise ships, yet it if definitely not
a beach resort. It is a real town within a city, where people work and live.
Men typically wear collared shirts and long pants, and businessmen wear
suits. Women tend to wear skirts or dresses and often high heeled shoes.
Although visitors are expected to dress more casually; a collared shirt,
shorts with pockets and belt, and shoes are minimally appropriate for adults
at most attractions.
Attractions
• San Juan National Historic Site,
501 Norzagaray Street, (787) 729-6960, . Open 9-5 June through November, and
9-6 December through May. The park consists of multiple sites. Castillo
San Crist'al is one of the largest Spanish fortresses in the new world,
and has a National Park Service visitor center off of Avienda Luis Mu'z
Rivera. The center offers English and Spanish versions of an introductory
film to the Historic Site, exhibits, and a bookshop. Castillo San Felipe
del Morro (or el Morro) is a citadel with a commanding view of
the entrance to San Juan Harbor, located at the end of Calle Norzagaray. The
extensive esplanade between the citadel and the town is popular for
kite flying. A single entrance fee to both forts is $5/week (children under
12 are free). Allow at least an hour to explore each fort. The park also
includes most of the historic city walls, and tiny Fort' San Juan de la
Cruz (or el Ca'elo) located across the harbor on Isla de Cabras.
• San Juan Cathedral, 153 Calle Cristo.
• Casa Blanca, western end of Calle San Sebasti', (787) 721-7000, ext.
2358. Official residence of the Governor of Puerto Rico.
• La Fortaleza, western end of Calle Fortaleza, (787) 724-1454. Ancestral
home of the Ponce de Leon family.
Shopping
Multiple tourist shops are located near the cruise ship docks and along
Calle San Francisco. On Calle Marina, opposite Pier 3, is the Plazoleta del
Puerto, a great collection of shops specializing in local island crafts. The
district is the home to many art galleries that specialize in painting and
sculptures from local artists. Also widely available are local crafts that
include hand-carved, wooden religious figures, festival masks made from
coconut husks or papier-m?h? hand-embroidered linens, blouses and dresses,
Spanish-style jewelry of copper, gold and silver, handbags, hammocks,
baskets, ceramics, and many items made from mahogany. Individuals on the
street selling handmade "flowers" made of palm fronds are often collecting
the money to buy drugs (see Stay safe below), and they usually get the palms
by stripping and often ultimately killing trees planted by the city or
commonwealth.
Dining
Unlike in most U.S. States, Puerto Rican law make it easy for restaurants
to sell alcohol. Even modest lunch counters will offer beer, wine, and some
mixed drinks. Tipping is customary.
• La Bombanera, Calle San Francisco, west of Tanca. Authentic local cuisine
in an unassuming landmark atmosphere unchanged for decades. Serves lunch and
dinner. Fresh pastries. Superlative coffee. Inexpensive.
• Cafe Majorca, Calle San Francisco, east of Tanca. Local cafe, operated by
the owners of La Bombanera. Serves breakfast and lunch. The
Majorca pastry is recommended. Superlative coffee. Inexpensive.
• Siglio XX, Calle O'Donell just south of Plaza Col?. Local cuisine. Good
Cuban sandwiches and beans and rice. Serves lunch and dinner. Inexpensive.
Lodging
Although Old San Juan is almost entirely surrounded by water, no hotels
have beach access. A few modern chain hotels are located near the cruise
ship docks, some with casinos. Hotels within the city walls tend to be more
colorful.
• Hotel El Convento, 100 Calle
Cristo, (800) 468-2779, . This small luxury hotel was a convent until the
late nineteenth century. A four story courtyard connects the rooms,
outlooking views vary greatly. Complementary breakfast and afternoon wine
and cheese. The deck around the rooftop plunge pool has a world-class view
overlooking the town including the cathedral, governor's mansion, and
harbor. Courtyard features shops, a restaurant, and a tapas bar. Most of the
hotel is accessible by elevator.
• The Gallery Inn, 204-206
Calle Norzagaray, (787) 722-1808, . A unique experience, its 22 rooms are in
a complex of connected eighteenth century houses. Owned and operated by an
artist, works are displayed throughout the inn. Built on perhaps the highest
point in the district, the roof deck has commanding views of the town and
ocean.
• Puerta de Tierra - These two resort hotels are on the same islet as Old
San Juan, and are a 5-minute cab ride away.
• Caribe Hilton San Juan, Calle
Los Rosales, San Geroimo Grounds, (787) 721-0303 or (800) 468-8585, . The
original resort hotel in Puerto Rico, the Caribe Hilton offers luxury
service, a private beach, and a casino.
• Hotel Normandie, Av. Mu?z Rivera at Parque de Tercer Milenio. First
modern destination hotel in Puerto Rico, landmark Art Deco building (1939).
Access to a public beach.
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Get in
Old San Juan is one of the largest cruise ship ports in the Caribbean,
with the docks within walking distance just south of the city walls. It is a
$20 cab ride from San Juan/Luis Mu?s Marin Airport.
There is also ferry service from across the harbor. Although one can
easily drive to Old San Juan, it is not easy to drive or park within the
district due to the narrow streets. For those staying at major hotels
outside of Old San Juan, day tours can usually be arranged with the
concierge.
Get around
The city offers a "trolley car" bus looping the district. Most distances
are walkable, although due to the often hilly topography and tropical
climate, one should allow proper time for getting around Old San Juan.
Get out
For those staying in Old San Juan, organized bus/van day-trips to other
sights in Puerto Rico can be arranged through most hotels. Some cabs wait at
the end of the El Morro esplanade footpath. There are usually several cabs
standing at the southwest corner of Plaza Col.
Drink
• The bar where the Pina Colada was invented, and still served,
is on Calle Fortaleza near San Jose A stone marker on the outside wall marks
the location.
Stay safe
As a general rule, Old San Juan within, and south of, the city walls is
quite safe. Tourists should be aware that a small neighborhood, La Perla,
between the northern city wall and the ocean is a notorious illegal drug
market. Visitors are recommended to avoid this area for their own safety.
However, it is not easy to accidentally wander into La Perla, as there are
only a few access points through or over the city walls. At night it is also
best to avoid the bastions of the northern city wall, overlooking La Perla.

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