The Faubourg Marigny (FAW-borg MER-ih-nee), or usually just Marigny, is a hip neighborhood below ("down") from the French Quarter. It has the air of what the French Quarter was a generation or two ago before there was so much tourist development. It has a few small hotels and many bed-and-breakfasts, as well as a number of good restaurants, coffee shops, and music venues.

Architecturally, the Marigny is known for its many styles of Creole cottages, most of which date to the 19th century. Its "heart" is Washington Square Park (bounded by Frenchmen Street, Royal Street, Dauphine Street, and Elysian Fields Avenue). Frenchmen Street is the main nightlife district, with half a dozen live music clubs and just as many restaurants in four short blocks.

Due to its odd shape (following a bend in the Mississippi River), locals often divide the Marigny into the "Marigny triangle" and the "Marigny rectangle." The triangle runs from Esplanade Avenue (abutting the French Quarter) to Elysian Fields Avenue. The rectangle begins at Elysian Fields and runs to the railroad tracks on Press Street, where the Marigny abuts the Bywater district (the "Ninth Ward").

At Mardi Gras, the Marigny is one of the city's hidden hot spots, popular with locals who enjoy partying in the streets without the drunken frat-boy atmosphere of Bourbon Street. Crowds gather at the corner of Royal and Kerlerec (outside the R-Bar), as well as at the intersection of Royal and Franklin. Elaborate costumes are the order of the day, along with brass bands and many drummers. Two weeks before Mardi Gras, the Marigny is also the starting place for the Krewe du Vieux, a satirical, raunchy parade in 19th-century Carnival style, complete with small floats drawn by krewe members and mules.

Known for its bohemian atmosphere and low rents (though the latter is changing), the Marigny is home to many artists and musicians, as well as a sizable gay and lesbian population. Among its notable residents are chef Paul Prudhomme, painter James Michalopoulas, and actors Harry Shearer and Jennifer Coolidge, who can be seen around town when they're not working in L.A. Local writers include New Orleans mystery writers Julie Smith and J.M. Redmann, as well as Andrei Codrescu, Michael Swindle, and Kevin Allman.

Dining

Budget
 • 13 Monaghan, 517 Frenchmen. An Irish themed bar and grill with surprisingly inventive food, squeezed into an odd warehouse space. Good Irish beers and late-night grub (till 3 am or later).
 • Cafe Rose Nicaud, 634 Frenchmen. Coffees, teas, and fresh deli sandwiches.
 • Flora's, 2600 Royal. Ultra-funky coffeehouse with light fare, as well as poetry readings, board games, and the like.
 • La Peniche, 1940 Dauphine (at Touro). Open 24 hours except Wed. Locals go here all day and night, particularly after the clubs; it's a cozy coffeeshop with a full bar. Peniche means "barge" in French because the building is made from barge wood previously used to carry goods down river. The Touro omelet is delicious. Friendly and fun waitstaff. NOLA cops eat there, so you know it is good.
 • Mona's, 504 Frenchmen. Middle Eastern cuisine, with excellent shwarmas, and an extensive vegetarian selection. Other locations around the city.
 • Schiro's Community Cafe & Bar, 2483 Royal, 944-6666. Great food, reasonably priced. Great vegan/vegetarian selections, even for breakfast. Small community market attached
 • Alois J. Binder Bakery 940 Frenchmen, 947-1111. Breads and pastries to go.
 • Robert Fresh Market 2222 St. Claude. This location has been boarded up, shut down, and is deserted. Other locations around the city are still operational (verified 2/10/06). Pronounced "row-bear," small by modern standards, but with all the amenities. Visitors can save money on food products (hot sauces, Creole mustard, beignet mix, etc.) by buying here instead of at the souvenir shops.

Mid-range
 • Adolfo's, 611 Frenchmen (upstairs from the Apple Barrel Bar). Cozy, slightly quirky yet charming Italian. Let the waiters guide you to the nightly specials.
 • Feelings, 2600 Chartres. The way the French Quarter used to be 50 years ago. Great piano bar, balcony overlooking nice courtyard. Definitely a locals place and great value, but not for the homophobic.
 • Marigny Brasserie, 640 Frenchmen. Formerly Cafe Marigny. Good menu, and a popular wine and martini bar.
 • Praline Connection, 542 Frenchmen Street, 943-3934. Much more than pralines (a sweet pecan candy), good Creole soul food at a reasonable price.
 • Santa Fe, 801 Frenchmen (by Washington Square). Southwestern and Mexican food.
 • Siam Cafe, 435 Esplanade. Thai food. The Dragon's Den is upstairs.
 • Sukho Thai, 1913 Royal. Authentic Thai food in a neighborhood cafe.
 • Wasabi, 900 Frenchmen. Excellent sushi and Japanese cuisine. Good selection of sakes.

Splurge
 • Marisol 437 Esplanade, 943-1912. Pete Vazquez is one of New Orleans' best chefs. His menu is constantly changing, so ask his wife Janis for her current recommendations when she seats you. Lovely courtyard.

Drink

 • Apple Barrel 609 Frenchmen 949-9399. Sometimes has live music too. Local characters, low prices, no attitude.
 • Cafe Brasil Frenchmen at Chartres; Great live music bar with erratic schedule. When there's a hot band, there's often as much of a party on the sidewalk as in the club.
 • Cowpokes 2240 St. Claude. Gay country-western bar with a dance floor. Very friendly and comfortable for all.
 • d.b.a. 618 Frenchmen. New York style bar on Frenchman, if you need a bit of sophistication when you drink. Great selection of beers.
 • Dragon's Den: 435 Esplanade. Very hip but dark bar above "Siam" Thai restaurant on Esplanade across from the old Mint; Often has a band; serves food and has excellent atmosphere-get comfy on floor pillows and great balcony overlooking Esplanade.
 • Friendly Bar 2301 Chartres (at Marigny). Gay neighborhood bar where locals gather to hang out in a no-pressure atmosphere.
 • Hookah Cafe 500 Frenchmen (at Decatur) Hip but slightly pricey place with Indian food, drinks, and smoking from hookahs.
 • Iggy's 1943 N. Rampart (at Touro) Neighborhood bar with a lot of neighborhood characters; very friendly for all. Frequently serves food.
 • The John 2040 Burgundy (at Frenchmen). Relaxed neighborhood hangout with rockabilly, country, and punk on the jukebox. Named for the gold-painted toilet seats that serve as stools at the tables.
 • Mimi's in the Marigny 2601 Royal (at Franklin). The tiniest bar in the Marigny (but hardly pretentious), with billiards, occasional live music, and tapas served from the restaurant upstairs. Good selection of beers and specialty drinks. Hip Hop and Funk DJ's Friday and Saturday nights. Lots of singles on the weekends.
 • Phoenix 941 Elysian Fields (at N. Rampart). Gay neighborhood bar by day, catering to the leather crowd at night. Also the official United Cab stand for catching rides back into the French Quarter. 24 hours.
 • R-Bar 1431 Royal (at Kerlerec). Hip but laid-back hangout that's comfortable by day and happening at night; great jukebox.

Lodging

 • The Claiborne Mansion 2111 Dauphine Street. (504) 949-7327. An outstanding 19th century mansion, an impressive guest list, and a wonderful hostess, Cleo. In and of itself worth a visit to New Orleans.
 • The Creole Inn 2471 Dauphine, 948-2217. A cozy B&B in a sleepy part of town. Lesbian-friendly.
 • Elysian Fields Inn 930 Elysian Fields Avenue. Convenient for walking into the French Quarter. Has secure covered parking.
 • The Frenchmen Hotel 417 Frenchmen Street 1 800 831 1781 or 504 948 2166
 • La Dauphine, Residence des Artistes 2316 Dauphine
 • La Maison Marigny Bed and Breakfast 1421 Bourbon Street
 • Royal Street Courtyard Bed & Breakfast 2438 Royal 943-6818
 • Royal Street Inn B&B 1431 Royal at Kerlerec: "B&B" here may stand for "Bed & Beverage", as this is upstairs from the R-Bar. 449-5535

Links

 • Marigny.org 
 • Bywater Marigny Current, a monthly community newspaper