Attractions

The visitor center in Frijoles Canyon offers a multimedia show on the monument, and there is a small gallery containing artifacts of archaeological, historical and cultural interest. However, most of the attractions of the main area are outdoors. A one-mile (1.6-km) loop trail leads to a variety of restored ruins of lodgings and ceremonial kivas on the canyon's floor and north wall, with interpretive signs en route and numbered references to an explanatory pamphlet available at the visitor center. Much of this trail is paved and accessible to wheelchairs, but the section along the canyon wall is rougher and includes stairs. Wooden ladders afford (optional) access to some of the cliff dwellings created by ancient Puebloans who enlarged natural voids ("caves," although the structures have nothing to do with classical limestone caves) in the soft tuff of the canyon wall. An option on the return from the cliff dwellings is a nature trail along the Rito de los Frijoles, the small creek in the canyon's bottom; this is posted with interpretive signs describing the plant and animal life along the trail.

A short extension beyond the loop trail leads to Ceremonial Cave, a large shelter cave some 300 feet (100 meters) above the canyon floor. A series of wooden ladders connect the cave to the valley floor (not for the severely acrophobic). Visitors can climb into a reconstructed kiva that was built inside the cave. The trail beyond Ceremonial Cave becomes increasingly rough and leads into the backcountry (see next section).

The canyon bottom near the visitor center is a suitable location for picnics, with parking, picnic tables, and toilets. The picnic area can be quite crowded during peak season (summer), as can the interpretive trail. Visiting during the off season can reduce the crowds significantly. Frijoles Canyon is particularly pleasant during the fall, when the crowds are reduced, temperatures are moderate, and neither the high winds of spring nor the monsoonal rains of late summer are likely to interfere with the visitor's enjoyment; however, the area is open, and usually easily accessible, during daylight hours year-round, except for Christmas and New Years. Visitors are expected to be off the interpretive trail and out of the visitors' area by dusk, except for special events

Activities

Bandelier is a superb hikers' park, with options ranging from the shortest excursions past the paved loop trail all the way to multi-day backpacks. A valuable resource for the hiker is the guidebook listed below under References, which gives a great deal of trail information. It is usually available for purchase at the visitor center. One note of caution: don't underestimate this park. There have been a number of deaths in the backcountry, some of them befalling experienced hikers. The Stay Safe section describes some of the things a backcountry hiker should be on the lookout for. Note that overnight backpacking is controlled by a permit system (see under Sleep), but no permits are required for day hiking.

Hiking in Frijoles Canyon
Trails lead both upstream and downstream from the visitor center and loop trail. Downstream, the primary trail climbs a short distance above the canyon bottom (hot and exposed during summer) en route to Upper and Lower Frijoles Falls, two attractive if variable waterfalls where Rito de los Frijoles cascades over resistant basalt cliffs interbedded with the prevailing tuff. The falls are usually at their most scenic in spring, when runoff from the mountains upstream guarantees adequate water flow; in the fall they may be nearly dry. One may turn around at either falls or continue downstream to the Rio Grande, with good views along the way. Total round-trip distance is about 7 miles (12 km).

The upstream trail leads past Ceremonial Cave (see above) and into one of the monument's few sections of truly narrow canyon. (Tread carefully here in potential flash-flood conditions.) The Bandelier Wilderness is soon entered and the crowds are left behind; fewer hikers pass this way than downstream. The trail continues to "Upper Crossing," where a trail coming down the canyon side from Ponderosa Campground meets the canyon trail, crosses the stream and continues up the south side of the canyon and into the wilderness. Travel along the canyon bottom beyond this point becomes rugged. Note that camping is prohibited in Frijoles Canyon; the backpacker will need to follow one of the trails up the south wall (see next section) to a campsite deeper in the backcountry.

In addition to hiking in the canyon, hiking into the canyon is possible, both from Ponderosa Campground en route to Upper Crossing and from Juniper Campground near the main entrance. The Frey Trail starts at Juniper and switchbacks down the canyon side with terrific views, eventually reaching the main loop trail. Remember, what goes down must come back up; both the Frey Trail and the trail to Upper Crossing are gut-busters in the uphill direction. Try to arrange a car shuttle.

Canyon/Mesa Hiking
Trails lead up the south side of Frijoles Canyon both at Upper Crossing and closer to the visitor center, offering the hiker access to the greater part of the Bandelier Wilderness. The nearest notable destination to the trailhead at the visitor center is Frijolito Ruin, a largely unexcavated archaeological site on the mesa top just past the canyon rim. The hike to Frijolito covers only 1.5 miles (2.5 km) but is considerably more punishing than the mileage suggests, as it switchbacks steeply up the canyon wall, gaining about 600 feet (180 meters) in a very short distance. This is a good short day hike for getting oriented to the Bandelier backcountry. The wilderness boundary is just beyond Frijolito.

Whether entering the wilderness via this route or from Upper Crossing, a network of trails covers the mesa top, with attractive views of the Jemez Mountains beyond a major scarp (terrain uplifted along a fault). At least the views used to be attractive; this area has been badly damaged by several forest fires in the last few years, and much of the terrain is just plain bleak despite the re-emerging young forest. Burned trees or no burned trees, these trails are a good place to see wildlife. The next major canyon south of Frijoles is Alamo Canyon, with smaller Lummis Canyon en route. Strong hikers can reach fine overlooks of Alamo and make it back to the visitor center in a reasonably comfortable day. Alamo Canyon is presently (September 2005) closed to camping, but campsites near Lummis are feasible.

One of the better-known archaeological sites in the park lies beyond Alamo Canyon: Stone Lions Shrine, a pair of stylized mountain lions (if you use your imagination) carved from rock buried in the ground. This shrine is still viewed as significant by some members of nearby pueblos, and you may find evidence of recent ceremonial activity there; please be respectful and don't disturb the artifacts. Another unexcavated dwelling site, Yapashi Pueblo, is en route to the Stone Lions. Hiking all the way from the visitor center to Stone Lions and back is possible in a day, but it's a real grunt; the hike is enjoyable as an overnighter.

Other trails follow the mesa between Frijoles and Alamo Canyons southeast toward the Rio Grande, with various other scenic opportunities. Unfortunately, many of the archaeological sites in this part of the park have been destroyed or damaged by flooding that resulted from the construction of Cochiti Dam downstream on the river, with Cochiti Lake forming behind it and sometimes reaching the mouths of the Bandelier canyons and beyond. It used to be straightforward to follow trails atop the mesa or in Alamo Canyon all the way to the Rio, walk upstream, and return to the visitor center via the trail in Frijoles Canyon. Depending on water levels, etc., this trip may or may not be possible now, but even if it is, water damage along the river banks will take some of the fun out of it.

Trails from St. Peters Dome
If the previous trails are still too crowded for you (even though, at least in off-season, you might hike to Stone Lions and back without seeing more than half a dozen people), try the trailheads reached via St. Peters Dome, a volcanic ridge on the northwest side of the monument. Trails here provide alternative routes to Stone Lions and also to the remote mesas and canyons beyond Alamo. You'll likely have this area to yourself -- and the rattlesnakes. This is a remote area. Make sure you leave word where you're going, and gas up in Los Alamos or White Rock before setting out.

Capulin Canyon is the next major canyon beyond Alamo. There are good backpacking campsites here, but check on availability when you get your permit. One difference between Capulin and the other backcountry canyons is that there are "modern" ruins as well as the usual prehistoric ones.

Nightwalk
For a different kind of hiking experience, if you're in the park during the summer, see if you can get on a "Nightwalk." This is a ranger-led stroll by flashlight along the loop trail (which is otherwise closed at dusk), with an emphasis on "atmosphere" that is accentuated by poetry, Native American stories, etc. -- but to give the atmospheric details would spoil the fun, so just go and experience it for yourself. There is a fee, and advance registration is necessary; contact the visitor center for details. Nightwalks are only done during the summer months (there may be a very few around Christmas), and only once or twice a week, so some advance planning is required, but it's highly recommended for the visitor with poetry in his/her soul. Not suitable for most small children, as strict silence is expected and contributes to the experience.

Photography
Frijoles Canyon is at its most photogenic in early morning and around sundown, when the shadows are most interesting and there is a little extra color in the rocks. Photos taken near noon often look a bit stark. Good viewpoints for photographs looking down at the ruins exist along the "Long House" part of the main loop trail; better ones are along the Frey Trail.