El Malpais National Monument is a United States National Monument that is located south of I-40 in northwestern New Mexico. The name (meaning "the badlands" in Spanish) comes from the rough, barren lava flow that makes up much of its terrain.

History

El Malpais National Monument and Conservation Area was established in 1987. The national monument protects 114,277 acres of volcanic landscape, while the adjacent national conservation area protects an additional 263,000 acres. The area has been inhabited for over 10,000 years, and historic and archeological sites provide reminders of past times. To this day Indian groups including the Acoma, Laguna, Zuni, and the Ramah Navajo still utilize the park for traditional activities including gathering herbs and medicines, paying respect, and renewing ties.

Landscape

El Malpais (pronounced el-mal-pie-EES) means "the badlands", so named due to the volcanic features such as lava flows, cinder cones, pressure ridges and complex lava tube cave systems that dominate the landscape. Sandstone bluffs and mesas border the eastern side, providing access to vast wilderness. Elevation in the park ranges from 6500 to 8300 ft. The most recent lava flow emanated from McCarty's Crater within the last 2,000 to 3,000 years, so the park remains a geologically active area.

Flora and fauna

While known more for its geologic features than for its wildlife, the park is home to golden eagles, red-tailed hawks, prairie falcons, great-horned owls, black bears, mule deer, elk, coyotes, mountain lions and bobcats. Less cuddly residents include rattlesnakes, scorpions, black widow spiders and brown recluse spiders. The park was also the home of a transplanted bison herd from 1993 until 1995, but the herd's preference for roaming onto private lands led to their relocation.

Climate

The weather in northwestern New Mexico is unpredictable and visitors should be prepared for all conditions throughout the year. Thunderstorms are a common occurrence during summer afternoons and lightning poses a hazard to hikers. Winter snowstorms are common and nights are cold with below freezing temperatures.

Get around

By car
State highways NM 117 and NM 53 provide access to many areas in the monument. County Road 42, a dirt road, provides access to the backcountry's primitive dirt roads. These roads may be impassable when wet, and travel is restricted to high clearance vehicles and those with four-wheel drive. Check at the ranger station for current road conditions before visiting the park's backcountry.

By bicycle
A mountain bike is a good alternative to driving when exploring the park's backcountry.

By foot
Hiking routes exist throughout the monument. Most traverse lava flows and are marked with rock cairns. Few dirt routes exist. Backcountry hiking and cave exploration is permitted, but no water is available. Topographical maps and a compass or GPS unit are strongly suggested for backcountry exploration. Please stop by a visitor center for the park's caving policy and information prior to entering any cave. Entry to most caves requires permits in advance of your visit. Use extreme caution hiking on lava terrain - it's sharp and unstable! Please don't hike or cave alone.

Activities

Caving
Warning: Always bring multiple independent light sources and wear sturdy hiking boots when exploring a cave!
Caves created from ancient lava tubes are found throughout the park, with some cave systems extending as far as seventeen miles. Several caves require permits for entry; check with rangers for current regulations. When caving, assume that your light source could break or be lost while exploring, and bring at least one (and preferably two) backup light sources. In addition, be aware that the cave floors are uneven, littered with boulders, and often wet, making sturdy shoes a necessity.
 • Junction Cave. Located just off of NM 53 east of the visitor center, this cave entry is a short walk from the parking area. The cave itself extends about one mile and makes a great introduction to caving for those wanting to explore.
 • Four Windows Cave. Located in the park's backcountry off of County Road 42, Four Windows Cave was named for the four openings near its entrance. Travel within this cave is relatively easy due to a fairly smooth floor, and gypsum and calcium formations combine with seasonal ice stalagmites to provide interesting sights along the way.
 • Big Skylight Cave. Located in the park's backcountry off of County Road 42, this cave was named for its large entrance. The floor of this cave is covered with a considerable amount of rubble that has fallen from its ceiling, making footing extremely uneven.
 • Braided Cave.

Hiking
 • Lava Falls Area. This trail leads over lava formations and past sinkholes to a high lava wall. The trail follows rock cairns and is often uneven, and the heat can be intense during the summer months.
 • Zuni-Acoma Trail. This ancient Puebloan trail follows a prehistoric trade route between Zuni and Acoma Pueblos. This is a strenuous 7.5+ mile one-way hike across 4 of the major lava flows in this region. The trail follows rock cairns over very difficult terrain; plan on taking at least five hours to cover the full 7.5 miles.

Lodging

There are no hotels in the park, but the nearby town of Grants offers numerous options.

Camping

There are no organized campgrounds in the western portion of the park, and campgrounds in the park's eastern portion may be closed; check with rangers for current conditions. Additional camping options can be found north of the park in the town of Grants.
 • Near Sandstone Bluffs. Located off of highway 117 near the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook, this campground is not actually within the park's borders, but is located within the El Malpais National Conservation Area and is operated by the BLM. Services are primitive and no fees are charged.
 • The Narrows. Located four miles south of La Ventana Arch along highway 117 and offering primitive services.

Backcountry

Backcountry camping in the national monument area requires a free backcountry use permit that can be obtained at any visitor center. Backcountry usage in the national conservation area does not require a permit, although visitors are encouraged to notify a ranger of their plans to help monitor usage.

Stay safe

Visitors planning to explore lava tube caves need to come prepared with warm clothing, protective headgear, at least three sources of light, sturdy footwear, and leather gloves. Do not take these warnings lightly; if you lose your light source even a short distance from a cave entrance it is extremely likely that you will become disoriented in the darkness and unable to find your way out. Similarly, the cave floor is rocky, uneven and often slippery, making sturdy footwear is an absolute necessity to avoid foot and ankle injuries.

Sturdy hiking boots are required when hiking on lava terrain and daypacks with water, snacks, raingear, first aid kit and sunscreen are suggested. The heat while on lava flows can be intense, so plan on drinking at least one gallon of water per person per day. In addition, be aware that progress over lava flows is slow, that lava is sharp and can easily tear apart tennis shoes, and that some sections of lava are unstable and may simply be thin crusts covering sinkholes.

Less common park dangers include rattlesnakes, scorpions and spiders, which can be easily avoided by being cautious in rocky areas; these creatures crawl under rocks to avoid the sun, so be cautious when reaching into crevices or overturning rocks. In addition, the area around McCarty's crater was once used as a military bombing range, and while unlikely, it is possible that unexploded ordinances may be encountered if traveling in this remote location. It goes without saying that any munitions that are encountered should not be handled and should be reported to rangers.