Toledo is a moderate-sized city in northwestern Ohio, on the Maumee River, at the edge of Lake Erie, and, most important, at the intersection of 1-75 and I-80. Everybody traveling in the Midwest United States has been through it at least once. People had big dreams for Toledo. The city is set on some of the most inhospitable land in the Midwest: the Great Black Swamp. Early white settlers spent years digging ditches through the swamp and lining them with clay tiles, when they weren't catching mosquito-borne diseases. Later settlers came over from Eastern Europe by the boatload, or up from down south, to work on the Erie Canal and in local factories that made cars and auto parts.

To this day, Toledo is a union town; the bloody Auto-Lite strike of 1934 was a key event in labor history. Today, Toledo is a city of 315,000 with a big local university, a decent daily paper (non-chain), and a lot of empty space downtown that gets turned into artists' lofts. There's a huge and beautiful neighborhood of Victorian mansions near downtown, a world-class art museum, and a band in every garage. The food is worth stopping for: not only Tony Packo's famous hot dogs, but also classy Middle Eastern food, Hungarian baked goods, and a few good old diners.

Attractions

 • Toledo Museum of Art -- 2445 Monroe St. (at Scottwood Avenue), Toledo; 419-255-8000 (tdd); 800-644-6862 (tdd). Tuesday-Thursday 10 a.m.-4 p.m.; Friday 10 a.m.-10 p.m.; Saturday 10 a.m.-4 p.m.; Sunday 11 a.m.-5 p.m. This is a fantastic, world-class museum. Free.
 • The Old West End -- the blocks south of the Art Museum. Historic neighborhood full of huge old mansions and 100-year-old trees. You can tour these homes at Christmas and at a festival the first weekend in June.

Annual events

 • Lights Before Christmas
 • Crosby Gardens Arts Festival
 • Monster trucks

Lodging

 • Clarion Toledo Hotel Westgate 3536 Secor Road. (419) 535-7070. Nr. University of Toledo
 • Wyndham Toledo Hotel TWO SEAGATE/SUMMIT STREET. Tel: (419) 241-1411. Fax: (419) 241-8161. An oasis of tranquility in the center of Toledo's bustling downtown. Whether you're staying with us for business or pleasure, you'll find attentive service and thoughtful conveniences at the Wyndham Toledo Hotel.

Dining

Local specialties include, Tony Packo's Pickles'n'Peppers, salt-rising bread from Wixey Bakery and handmade noodles.
 • Tony Packo's
 • Wixey Bakery