The Valles Caldera National Preserve (VCNP for short) is a new (2000) and unusual unit of the United States national park system in the Jemez Mountains of north central New Mexico. It preserves a huge volcanic structure of great scenic and scientific value, under a novel, pioneering arrangement that allows it also to function as a working, money-making cattle ranch. Facilities for the visitor are still being developed and are undergoing rapid change.

Fees/Permits

The fee structure at VCNP is one of its many unusual features among United States national parks. Access to the preserve via SR 4 is free, and there are free hikes, Nordic ski outings, etc., from trailheads along SR 4 (free permit). Most activities in the interior of the Preserve, however, are on a fee basis, with fees ranging from $6 for half a day of Nordic skiing, all the way to $150 for birding, painting and other classes that combine with overnight stays at the Casa de Baca Lodge. Most fees for unguided day use are of order $10-15 (youth and senior discounts apply), with some additional cost for guided hikes and skis. The VCNP web site,, has details. Another unusual feature of VCNP is that it is one of very few major national park/preserve sites at which hunting, on a restricted basis, is allowed -- specifically, elk hunting, as the resident herd is in constant need of culling. A limited number of permits are issued each year, on a "lottery" system: would-be hunters buy lottery tickets ($5 each) that provide a chance of getting to hunt, with the actual hunters chosen before the beginning of hunting season (and paying an additional fee for the actual hunt) according to a complicated allotment system and a random draw of lottery entries. The web site has additional details. Fishing is also on a lottery basis.

Attractions

VCNP is more of a "Do" place than a "See" place, but expansive views of the preserve can be found all along NM SR 4, which runs along the southern edge of the Valle Grande. Bring good binoculars and a telephoto lens; the valley is much bigger than you think it is. If passing by during the summer, you'll probably have a chance to see elk grazing in the Valle, right alongside (and sometimes intermingled with) the cattle that spend the summer there as part of the preserve's money-making mandate.

Landscape

The terrain is volcanic (surprise, surprise) with the caldera rim topping out at elevations around 10,500 feet. (Chicoma Mountain and a few other points along the northeastern rim reach over 11,000', but lie outside the Preserve, on the territory of Santa Clara Pueblo.) The caldera itself has a base level around 8000' and is broken into a collection of valleys by resurgent domes and post-caldera eruptive centers. The largest valley is the Valle Grande, on the southeast side of the caldera; the highest summit within the caldera, and the highest in the Preserve, is Redondo Peak, with a summit elevation above 11,200 feet. Note that Redondo Peak is considered a sacred mountain by a number of the American Indian tribes of the region, and its summit is off limits to hikers. El Cajete is a relatively recent (~60,000 years old?) eruptive center southwest of Valle Grande that is reachable by an attractive trail (see under "Do"). Most of the mountains in VCNP are fairly gentle, although there are a few basalt outcroppings that produce cliffs. These cliffs are not yet open to the public for rock climbing, but similar formations in the surrounding Santa Fe National Forest and in nearby Los Alamos are popular destinations for the technical sport climber. The territory outside the caldera features a vast region of eroded tuff known as the Pajarito Plateau, with spectacular canyon-mesa scenery. Los Alamos is built on the Pajarito Plateau, and many of the formation's canyons are preserved in Bandelier National Monument which abuts VCNP on the south. The drive to VCNP from the east (Los Alamos) side shows this terrain to breathtakingly good advantage.

Climate

Valles Caldera has a continental climate with four distinct seasons. Winter weather is highly variable, with some years producing a great deal of snow (over four feet of snow has fallen in a single storm) and other years producing almost none at all. Winter highs in the valleys are typically around 35-40 degrees (Fahrenheit) and lows around 10 F, although there are isolated cold pockets from cold air coming off the mountains. December is often the coldest month and can see a few days of sub-zero temperatures at night. Snow in the valleys usually melts completely around April, leading to a dry, usually warm spring characterized by high winds. This combination can create nasty forest-fire hazard in May and June, particularly following a dry winter. Winds die down somewhat by June, which is hot (highs around 90 F) and dry. Monsoon conditions develop in July and persist until around the beginning of September, leading to cooler temperatures (highs in the 80s, lows around 50) and spectacular afternoon thunderstorms that urge the hiker to be off the trails by early afternoon. This is a great time to visit, but make sure you bring raingear and start your day early. The thunderstorms usually die out by Labor Day or so, leading to autumn conditions that are temperate, dry (apart from the occasional frontal storm system) and generally very pleasant. The first snowfall is commonly in October, but snow doesn't start to stick until Thanksgiving or so. Conditions on the mountains are similar but 10 degrees cooler, with more rain and snow.

Flora and Fauna

The valleys are grasslands, while the mountains are covered with coniferous forest and aspens. New Mexico's largest herd of elk spends its summers in the Preserve, migrating to lower elevations for winter. Deer and black bear are also encountered, and there are a few mountain lions, although they are almost never seen by visitors. Smaller animals include the ubiquitous coyote, porcupine, skunk, raccoon, and all manner of rodents. Birdwatching in VCNP is good, although not as diverse as along the nearby Rio Grande. Many species of raptors are present and can often be seen perched on dead timber or gliding above the valleys looking for prey, as can black vultures. Two of the most characteristic birds of VCNP, at opposite ends of the size scale, are the huge black ravens that compete for offal with the vultures, and several species of hummingbirds that may zing past you as you hike or ride. The raptors, vultures and ravens are residents year-round, but the hummers are migratory and head south around the beginning of September. There are few snakes in VCNP, as the elevation is too great for most of them. However, timber rattlesnakes have been seen on occasion even near the top of the ski runs on Pajarito Mountain (elevation 10,409') on the eastern rim above Los Alamos. The endangered Jemez Mountain salamander is present and could lead to occasional closures of parts of VCNP to preserve its habitat. Trout swim in the streams that have their headwaters in the region, some of which are suitable for fishing (permit system).

Get around

The road to the "visitor center" (really just a couple of huts with offices for reservations, etc.) is drivable (if rough) in ordinary cars, except during winter. Many winter activities, and some in other seasons, will require you to leave your car at one of the parking areas on NM SR 4 and take a Preserve shuttle to the starting point for your activity. Don't feel too skittish about doing so; this park doesn't have significant problems -- yet -- with vandalism of or theft from parked vehicles. (Lock up, anyway.) If you're doing something that involves travel on foot, hiking boots are a good idea. If Nordic skiing, be braced for highly variable conditions. The Jemez Mountains are notorious for snow conditions that place perfect powder, hard ice, and milk-shake-like slush all within 100 feet of each other. Choose your equipment accordingly; this is a good place for waxless skis, as they're relatively tolerant of changing conditions.