Bandelier National Monument is a United States National Monument in the state of New Mexico near Los Alamos. It was once inhabited by the ancient Puebloans (incorrectly known as the Anasazi), the ancestors of some of the modern-day Native American pueblos of northern New Mexico. For some unknown reason probably related to drought and decline in agriculture, the Puebloans abandoned this site, but the area is still honored by the present-day Pueblo people. They left behind a land of enigmatic ruins and superb canyon/mesa scenery that beckons the hiker, student and photographer.

Lodging

The nearest hotel/motel is a Hampton Inn in White Rock, about 8 miles (13 km) away. Los Alamos proper has more hotel options. Satisfactory bed-and-breakfasts can be found in both towns, but do a curiously poor job of advertising their existence and seem to change hands often enough to make information rapidly obsolete. One that appears to have been around for a while is Canyon Inn B&B in Los Alamos, phone (505) 662-9595. Competition for the tourist dollar in Los Alamos is not exactly cutthroat; if they don't have a room available when you want to visit, they can probably tell you about some other B&B that might.

Camping
 • Juniper Campground Near the park entrance station. (505) 672-3861 ex 517. Open most of the year, but may close in the winter depending on the weather. First-come, first-serve, no reservations. 94 sites, no hook-ups, but centrally-located water taps and a dump station are available. Each site has a paved parking pad, picnic table and fire grill. Flush toilet restrooms. No showers (available for a fee at the public pool and the YMCA in Los Alamos, 12 miles/20 km away). Limit 10 people/2 vehicles/3 tents per site. Firewood gathering is not permitted. Pets are permitted only in campsites, parking areas, or along roadways, and must be on leash. Evening programs are offered at campground amphitheater in summer as staffing permits; check the bulletin boards on the restrooms. Camping fee $12/night/site as of 5/22/05; Golden Age and Golden Access passes provide 50% discount.
 • Ponderosa Group Campground Located along State Route 4 about 6 miles (10 km) west of the Bandelier entrance station. (505) 672-386. Open mid-spring to mid-autumn. For use of groups of 10 or more only. Reservations required, and sites can also be reserved for day use. Two sites, capacity 50 people each; fee is $35/night/site. Parking is limited, and any group may have only 1 RV among its vehicles. Central water taps, pit toilets, fire grills, picnic tables; no hook-ups. No showers in the park, but showers are available at the public pool and the YMCA in Los Alamos (5 miles) for a small fee. Firewood gathering not permitted. Sites can also be reserved for day use.

Backcountry
Free permits are required for overnight trips; obtain them in person at the Visitor Center during regular hours. Campfires are never permitted in the Bandelier wilderness, but fuel-type stoves are OK. No pets, weapons, or fireworks permitted. Be prepared to hang food at night and to purify water. For further information call the park service at (505) 672-3861 ex 517.

Get Out

Two parts of Bandelier itself lie off the beaten path. Tsankawi is a detached part of the monument that offers a chance to see ruins in an unrestored state and hike on more primitive trails or even cross-country. There are excellent petroglyphs in profusion here. It is on the southeast side of State Highway 4 shortly after it splits off from 502 (coming from Santa Fe) and before White Rock. Bring hiking boots and plan to spend 2-3 hours; the hike is not long, but as you must find many of the attractions (particularly the petroglyphs) for yourself, you'll be moving slowly.

In the winter, cross-country skiing is possible on loop trails at the upper end of the monument. Follow 502 northwest (left) from the main entrance, with sites of Los Alamos National Laboratory on your right (closed to public). The drive will show evidence of the disastrous forest fire in 2000 that started as a controlled burn within Bandelier, got out of control, and spread into the town of Los Alamos, destroying about 400 homes and apartments. A spectacularly winding and exposed road eventually reaches a parking lot high in the mountains, with the ski loops on the left-hand side. (The right-hand side at the parking lot is presently closed to the public despite being part of Bandelier, but as of fall 2005, plans are afoot to open it to some recreational use; stay tuned.) The trails range in length from 1.1 mile (1.8 km) to 8 miles (13 km) and are maintained for in-line skiing only, not being wide enough for diagonal technique. The terrain is suitable for the beginning XC skier as the trails wind through serene conifer forest to superb views of the canyon. Check locally on snow conditions before embarking on this trip; snowfall in the Jemez Mountains varies greatly from year to year, and conditions can range from excellent through completely unskiable even in deepest winter. Hiking on these trails during summer is possible, though unexceptional; the road to St. Peters Dome takes off from 502 just beyond the parking lot and leads to more scenic and challenging trails.

Beyond St. Peters Dome road, 502 continues into the Jemez Mountains and passes through Valles Caldera National Preserve, another unit of the national park system. This is one of the newest of the national-park units and opportunities for the visitor are still being developed. Valles Caldera protects gorgeous mountainous terrain surrounding an enormous volcanic structure that erupted catastrophically about 1.5 million years ago and again 1.1 million years ago to produce the tuff that makes up the mesas and canyons of Bandelier. Forays into Valle Grande, the largest valley in the caldera, and to surrounding peaks can be arranged, and there is interesting XC skiing in winter that is somewhat more likely to have satisfactory snow conditions than the Bandelier loop. Inquire locally; doing things in Valles Caldera takes some advance planning owing to access restrictions.

Los Alamos is a quiet town of about 20,000 (including White Rock) with historical and science museums, a surprisingly good downhill ski area on nearby Pajarito Mountain, and its own archaeological sites -- the historical museum is right next to a set of restored ruins in the middle of town. Overlook Park in White Rock ends in a wheelchair-accessible viewpoint that offers stunning views of White Rock Canyon and the Rio Grande far below. Lodging and dining are possible in either the main Los Alamos town site or White Rock; all are satisfactory, none exceptional. For fine dining and much else, go back to Santa Fe.